Another oddity from our favorite mad professor— a 1.2 lb elongated rectangle, a stretched out Limburger shape or brick cheese, with a washy, sticky rind and an almost unbelievably custardy (and sweet and running) paste just/barely holding tiny fudgy pockets of blue. The paste, like all of Anton’s cheeses, is thick, dense and shiny, due to the extremely high quality of the milk used for production. The cheese is aged only a few weeks, so its flavors are meaty, tangy and enticing without being overwhelming.
Anton’s Holzinger, master cheese maker at Bio-Käserei Zurwies, began making cheese at 15, when he enrolled in the dairy school in Zurwies, in the middle Allgäu region of southern Germany. 25 years later, after years of cheese making experience, he and his friend Richard Kurzweil took over the dairy at Bio-Käserei Zurwies. They had visions of making small format cheeses made from local, silage free milk. Today the dairy uses 6500 liters of cow milk per day from 22 farmers located within 5K of the dairy. Each small farm has between 10 – 12 cows, with an average of 90% Braunvieh and 10% Holstein.
The dairy itself uses a modern tip-up system, allowing their limited volume of milk to be used in multiple small vats to produce many types of cheese in a single day. They can set the moulds for Red Love and use one vat of curd for that production while another vat of milk sets to be used for another cheese. This has greatly increased the efficiency of the dairy to the point where all of energy for cheese making (as well as about 50% of their total energy usage) is collected from the solar arrays that line the roofs of the surrounding buildings.
FORMAT 3/1.2 lb brick
TYPE Semi-soft, Washed rind
MILK Pasteurized cow, 90% Braunvieh, 10% Holstein, 22 contributing herds
RENNET Traditional Calf stomach
PRODUCER Anton Holzinger Bio-Käserei Zurwies
REGION Baden-Württemberg, Germany
AGE 2-3 weeks
PROFILE Extremely rich but balanced, with a graham cracker-like sweetness, moderate funk, and tremendous fattiness.